Art and Beauty in the Joburg CBD -- Part 2

"Public Art provides a means of celebrating Johannesburg’s unique culture, diverse communities and rich history. It offers shared symbols which build social cohesion, contribute to civic pride and help forge a positive identity for the city. Through this art, the City projects its collective identity and vision, while individuals and community groups in neighbourhoods are also empowered to express their unique identities. Public art supports the creative industries, creating opportunities for artists, designers and fabricators. Further, public art acts as a catalyst for development and economic growth through raising confidence, attracting visitors and stimulating investment." (City of Joburg, Public Art Policy document, 2003) 

Taken from Newtown Heritage Trail website

I can't top the above.  I'll just say, the following are photos and my thoughts about some of the public art located in the Johannesburg Central Business District. I took these photos while on a PAST Experiences tour, Creative Jozi.  Jo Buitendach was our guide.

One of the things I love about Joburg's public art is that some of it is almost secret, seen only if you know where to look. Soon after the tour started from Market Theater's parking lot, Jo walked us out on Miriam Makeba Street and had us look up and over another building.   There was South African photographer Dale Yudelman's "Joburg Man."  The photograph, of a giant man walking in the city, is itself giant, but easily passed by if you do not know to turn your head and look up.

(As an aside, I did a quick google search on Dale to find out the proper spelling of his surname - not the Utelman I had written in my notes - and came across one reviewer's description of Yudelman's photography - fictive truth. Perfectly put.)

On a previous PAST Experiences' tour, I was introduced to the graffiti art of internationally known South African street artist, Rasty.  In that fabulous way of "you see what you know," I now see his distinctive mural art all over the city.   Even better, I am now tuned into street art in a new way making city life a little more colorful.

And of course we have the famous heads all over Newtown.   560 of them.  All different. Designed to reflect African diversity.   By four artists, Americo Guambe, Petrus Matsolo, Dan Guambe, and Joe Matolo.   Jo tells us that the heads have been carved from old railway sleepers .  I have heard previously the story that these heads were originally put in as a "readiness test" for rejuvenation of the Newtown area, the theory being that if the heads were not vandalized then it was a sign that the area was prime for rejuvenation.  So, the story goes that the heads were not touched and rejuvenation of Newtown as an arts and cultural mecca for the city got underway.

    

Markets, to me, are their own form of art.  So this one, with the mural behind it is like getting a two-for-one.  The wares, previously worn clothes, are laid out on cloths on the ground, and interestingly, all the vendors are male.   If you look to the bottom left of the mural, you see a depiction of contemporary artist, Mary Sibande.  It is said she wanted her picture on the mural so she could look out for the women who come to buy at this all male-vendored market.

(Turns out this stop was a three-for-one for me.  I, being fairly new to South Africa, didn't actually know who Mary Sibande is.  Again, turned to Google.  What a bonus to learn of this Johannesburg-based young artist and learn about her amazing art!  Joburg buildings wrapped in the image of Sibande's creation, Sophie, a domestic worker!  Sadly for me it was up and down before I ever arrived to this fabulous city.)

This piece, installed on a large traffic island and designed to welcome visitors to this part of the city installed , is one of my favorites for its sheer whimsy.   Apparently, folks from the nearby Chinatown are known for feeding pigeons.  In recognition of this, or maybe in celebration, the artist created 3 large metal origami pigeons. Especially delightful is that, in contrast to the typical view that pigeons defile public art, this artist, by attaching handy perching spokes to his metal pigeons, invites the living ones to come enjoy.

While I was taking photos, a man was there spreading bird food out on the ground in a long curving line (which is why none of the pigeons in the photo are on the perches.)  The birds spread themselves along the wavy path, forming a live piece of flowing art especially lovely juxtaposed next to the angular origami pigeons.  When we came back through toward the end of the tour, one of my fellow tour mates ran through the pigeons sending them fluttering as one up into the air.  What a beautiful addition of movement to this piece - or maybe I was just so taken by all the art we had seen, that by this point a piece of rubbish blowing in the wind would have seemed like art to me.




Not public art per se, but I loved the old and the new of these buildings holding the same space.

It is no accident that I look like a child sitting on the lap of Walter Sisulu.  This piece, featuring Walter and Albertina Sisulu, and entitled Parents of the Nation, sits in Ferreirasdorp, a section of town where many anti-apartheid activists worked and lived. Fittingly, this piece is installed across the street from the building, pictured above, where the Sisulus lived.  

Seriously, how can you not love a city that would do this!!!!   All the Rea Vaya (public bus system) stations are adorned with depictions of city street scenes, each by a different artist. Take a look next time you pass a station.

There is plenty of art from the old days too.  These etchings, stretched mural-like across the base of an old bank building, depict the building of the nation - from a very particular viewpoint of course.  Notice the man in the hat above with his commanding finger point.

Pretty door knobs on one of those old buildings. No more need be said.

Okay, imagine walking along beside this building, beautiful in that solid, imposing way this venerable architecture can be . . .

You come across this sign outside the door. Super trendy, Super delicious. Who can resist? So you step in. 

And there, in the large round foyer, swirling sherbet paintings of gorgeous faces and hair, fanciful scissors and hairdryers, ribbons of whimsy surround you.   It is a wonderland.

You look up, and in some odd way, the ornate sky light still beautifully intact brings the light and air and magic of the new and modern into alignment with the heavy and solid and venerable of the old.

Full of joy from the M Cafe and Hair Salon, we move onto the mining quarter, with its large pedestrian plaza and numerous pieces of art, more traditional and probably recognizable by many Johannesburgians.

This fountain sculpture represents the first nugget of gold found
in Johannesburg.  

Check out the honoring of nuclear power - greek style.
Hmmm. . .

These friezes also depict the history of the nation.
Again, a very particular version.

These leaping impala,were originally in a nearby park.  After they were damaged (vandalized for the money the metal would bring) they were repaired and moved here in front of the Anglo Gold Building, where they are watched over by security cameras.   But how fun is this--each year at Christmas, Santa's sleigh is put behind the sculpture, and for a short time, the impala pretend to be reindeer.  

Scattered around the square are beautiful mosaics bringing color to the plaza floor. Many of them depict everyday street life such as taxis and markets.   Jo pointed out this one, depicting plates of fruit for sale.   How delightful, when about 10 minutes later as we crossed into another area, there in front of us was the inspiration for the mosaic.  ( in my mind, art in and of itself.)

We are nearing the end of our walk now and my eyes are open in a new way.  Everything has the element of art; everything is appearing a little more beautiful.   The plain wall enlivened by the graffiti art. The black and grey graffiti art enlivened by the red sacks of onions.  

On a previous PAST Experiences walk, (this one of Pieter Roos Park), also near the end of
the tour, I had begun to see everything as art, so I snapped this photo
of the orange power box surrounded by razor wire, back-dropped
 by the verdant green grass.   Then, imagine my thrill when I saw. . .

. . . this power box near Bassline in Newtown protected by intentional art.  Love it!

I want to end on this one.  The tour is over and I am walking to my car parked near Market Theater.  On this small street, practically an alleyway, is this stunning mural, transforming the building from plain and barren to lively and beautiful.  Much as the art and people of the CBD transform this part of the city to lively and beautiful.